Pinot Gris across the Rhine: Pfalz vs Alsace

One grape, one vintage, two sides of the border

1. Weingut Münzberg — Godramsteiner Schneckenberg Grauer Burgunder 2023, VDP.Erste Lage (Pfalz, Germany)
2. Domaine Mélanie Pfister — Pinot Gris “Silb” 2023 (Alsace, France)

The same grape from the same year, grown about 100 kilometres apart on either side of the French-German border. In the southern Pfalz it is called Grauer Burgunder and is usually made fresh and dry. In Alsace it is Pinot Gris, and the tradition there is fuller and richer. We taste the two side by side and see how much of the difference comes from the place and how much from the winemaker.

What to expect

Münzberg, Godramsteiner Schneckenberg 2023 (Pfalz). A family estate near Landau, in one of the warmest and sunniest corners of Germany. The Schneckenberg vineyard sits on limestone and marl. Expect green and yellow apple, pear, citrus zest and a hint of almond, with clear acidity and a crisp, mineral finish.

Mélanie Pfister, Silb 2023 (Alsace). Mélanie is the eighth generation of her family to make wine in Dahlenheim, west of Strasbourg, and the first woman to run the estate. The vineyards are farmed organically, and Silb is one of the few wines she ages partly in oak. Expect ripe peach, dried apricot, quince and honey, a creamy texture and a gentle smoky spice.

At home with these wines

The Münzberg with asparagus, roast chicken, river fish or salads. The Pfister with richer dishes: pork in a cream sauce, chicken with chanterelles, firm white fish or aged cheeses.

Wine conversations

How to write a tasting note

We taste both wines the way wine students do, using the WSET Level 2 method: appearance, nose, palate and a short conclusion. Each guest gets a simple tasting form, and we fill it in together, step by step. By the end of the evening you’ll know what to look for in a glass and how to describe it in a few clear words, and you can take the form home for your next bottle.

Bonus: One grape, three names

Pinot Grigio, Pinot Gris, Grauburgunder: why the same grape gives a light Italian aperitif, a rich Alsace white and a crisp German dry wine, and how to tell from the label which one you’re buying.